Montag, 6. Juli 2015

Training - First Ascent - North Face

Hanno on the cruxpitch of Land ohne Herren, Titlis north face, soooooo steep

After the winter season with some cool steep skiing I spent some weeks in Valle dell Orco. I visited the valley for the first time and enjoyed some of the classics and high quality variations on Caporal and Sergent. Bernd introduced me to the owners from the Ristorante Gran Paradiso at Noasca and it was like I would visit the place already for years. The people are very friendly and the food they offer is just amazing.
To visit the valley for multipitch climbing or bouldering is highly recommended. 

A very exclusive ride on the west face of the Rote Wand, Lechquellengebirg, skiing direct from the highest point on the picture down some cool terrain..... so much fun : )
Valle dell Paradiso ähh Orco, Noasca
Kostelic Crack on a short weather window, Bernd Zangerl inspecting my jamming qualities

Close up by the one and only Ray Demski on a cool boulder opened by Zangerl B., Noasca

From the superb granite of Orco I spent some training time at Voralpsee and on the campus board in sight of my multi pitch project in the Rätikon. I finished the route last summer but couldn´t redpoint all pitches in one day due to other travels and early snow……
This season I had already two good days in the project and hopefully the wall is dry after the forecasted thunderstorms to give it another go!

Crimping, crimping,cimping! Speed, Voralpsee

The last weekend was way too hot and Hanno and I wanted to hang around in a north face higher up. The Eiger north face still had too much snow and conditions on the long routes looked wet?! So we decided to visit the north face of Titlis. We did the “Land ohne Herren” (7c, 10pitches, bolted) and I could on sight the route with a 6a and two 6c led by Hanno so not a real on sight : ). What a nice and steeeeeeeep climb!

Hanno on the approach, it´s 6.30 am, the superb wall in the background. 
Cruxpitch, so steep but crazy good holds what a route!

Hanno following

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