Montag, 15. September 2014

Exposure and the First Snow....



 Fresh snow on the small glaicer autum is here. pic Alex Luger


This summer was not really a summer, in my region it rained a lot but I tried my best to get on my new project on the rare days without rain and blizzards. I did a first ascent on a 350+meters face with the upper headwall constantly overhanging. The steepness of the face made the climbing into the unknown very intense because there is not much to rest on. Now I am working on the redpoint. The day before yesterday it snowed 20cm on the summit. Summer is really over. Hope there will be some nice weather still to come for some quality tries on the route.  


 The headwall is steep.




 Chilling out on a small ledge befor the crux pitch.
All pictures Alex Luger collection.



Mittwoch, 4. Juni 2014

Aurora Borealis

 pic. Ray Demski


pic Ray Demski

The trip to Norway was amazing, lot´s of inspiring and wonderful ice climbing lines great alpine climbing and a good climbing ethic. The people are very hospitably and they say things straight out, what makes it very uncomplicated.
We have been in the Lyngen Alps for iceclimbing and shooting aurora borealis. So the days where quiet long, but I like the feeling of a harsh nature and the cold with the big sleeping bag in view ;).
We where a nice team with Hanno Schluge, Ray Demsky, Heli Putz, Thomas Schermer and Cameron Sylvester whose kept the spirits high even in darker times.

Hanno Schluge and me managed to realise a cool first ascent as the locals confirmed. The 6 pitches long route is called Stuorraniibi (Sami Knife) and we rated it WI6, M7. The protection is clean. What I really like on this climb is that we didn´t left any traces from our ascent. The rock is sometimes loose but with some alpine experience you can enjoy the climb. A king line.

So now the photo project is online with unique pictures and a short clip of the trip.

The link to the project: 


The clip of the trip:

http://vimeo.com/93617346


    Thanks to the team for the nice time. I will be back for sure.

Samstag, 3. Mai 2014

On the Cover of Gripped

Lugerhammer 8b clean ascent, Location Indian Himalaya.
When I walked around this unexplored (in climbers view) mountain range I carried always a binocular with a monopole extension on it, from far it looked like a big hammer ; )